The fluid level should be inĬOLD region at 70° F fluid temperature. If it is in the HOT region (cross-hatched area) on Speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle PARK to be sure that the fluid level check is accurate. An engine needs oil to lubricate moving parts, prevent corrosion, collect dirt and sludge, and absorb some of the heat generated by a running engine. The torque converter fills in both the PARK and The transmission sump has a dipstick to check oil "TJ AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RLE (page) 21 - 111 In other words, I wasn't making it up that the 42RLE's ATF level can be checked in both Park and Neutral. Ive rebuilt other OD's before but its been a while, and want to make sure I have any special tool i need beforehand.The below information was copied straight out of the 42RLE section of the Mopar Factory Service Manual for my '04 Rubicon that uses the 42RLE transmission. Full automation for continuous production of petroleum gas, including in the version with modules. Allows you to increase production as needed, starting with the starting technology. When you are done with the cleaning, allow the components to dry. You need fuel, a washing brush, a spray can, and a washing pan or bowl to do the cleaning. Clean the metal or aluminum shavings in the transmission pan along with the magnet. The rebuild is just preventive maintainance, but it does have a little issue that it sometimes wont downshift easily without more than normal throttle. Scalable Blueprint, all pipelines are connected. Loosen and wash the metal in the transmission filter. The 46re has 165,000 miles, works perfect and has never been touched, aside from fluid changes every 10K. Does anyone see anything i'm missing here? This will be done by the book and is a commuter ram, never tows and i drive like grandpa. I thought everything was fine until tonight. Also will replace any hard parts i find worn as i go along. I have had my 1999 dodge ram slt 5.2L (318) for five years now and I have rebuilt my tranny (46re) twice. I will do a alto master kit, with new steels and kevlar band, rebuilt TC, and all seals gaskets, plus all new solonoids, bushings and thrust washers. I see that my OD unit is under high spring pressure, will I need to purchase a benchtop compressor to compress the pack for assembly/dissassembly?ĭuring valve body R&R, when I check pistons for wear, will compressed air leakage be a good indicator if the casting is worn out, such as hissing past the pistons? Should I use a min/max air pressure? On the other hand, no internal leaks plus a worn or inefficient pump will exhibit the same problem maintaining line pressure. Should i follow factory specs for the band preload adjustments, or the band manufacturers specs?Īt any time will I absolutely need to check pressures with a guage adapter or only if theres a problem post-build? You can have a good pump, but leaks in other oil circuits inside the transmission will consume oil pump volume and reduce the pump’s ability to create pressure. Will the front pump come out without using a special slide hammer or is it hit or miss? a518 46re 46rh a618 47rh 47re 48re transmission pump gear set 10 inner & 11. gm 7.25 ifs front w/ oil pan mount gm 7.6 ifs front differential gm 8.25 ifs front gm 9.25 ifs front. Two days later I have the red drop hanging from the silver cap again. I dont believe the volume of fluid leaking was consistent with an o-ring leak given the condition of the old o-ring. Old o-ring was a little squared off but seemed fine. What solvents should i *not* use to clean the parts. a518 46re 46rh a618 47rh 47re 48re transmission pump gear set 10 inner & 11 outer teeth. Removed trans again and replaced o-ring and pump plate gasket. I'm going to do mine myself, in the next few weeks or so.
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